In the previous installment of "The Chemistry of Flavor," we explored the fundamentals to begin our journey into understanding food chemistry. We concluded with two key aspects:
- Personal differences
- Life, like flavor, is made of samples
Before delving into the composition of food and beverages, we should understand ourselves. The first installment of "Sensory Dance: The 5 Senses" explains our five senses' role in consumption.
It is evident that understanding ourselves and comprehending the composition of food and beverages cannot be achieved overnight; however, with small marginal gains, we can achieve satisfying results.
Today's topic revolves around cold and hot flavors. Compared to the previous installment, we will increase the difficulty level of the subject for both explanation and understanding.
This reminds me of Judo; when you start, they teach you the basic projections, like Ippon Seoi-nage, which, if you think about it, is one of the most lethal techniques. This makes sense; in many cases, the "basic" aspects are the most complex and allow for a deeper understanding.
THE TRIGEMINAL SYSTEM
This system is present in all humans, and its name, trigeminal, means "triplet." According to the Orofacial Pain Clinic (2018), "The term refers to the presence of three divisions: ophthalmic (V1), maxillary (V2), and mandibular (V3). These branches emerge from the Gasserian ganglion. It is a mixed nerve containing sensory and motor nerve fibers."
This system does not directly influence "taste" (used as flavor) but rather the sensation in the mouth. Klosse (2013) states that the experience of effervescence from sodas, beers, and champagne, the heat from certain peppers and spices, the coolness of menthol, and the thickness or creaminess of various foods and beverages is thanks to the trigeminal system, adding that temperature contributes to the oral sensation.
Dr. Virginia explains a similar concept in practice, starting from the premise that "Red meats are served with red wines and white meats are served with white wines." While some white meats can pair with red wines and vice versa, Dr. Virginia leads us to the reasoning behind this premise, focusing more on the chemistry rather than its historical origin.
In addition to mentioning the trigeminal system, she also discusses nociceptors. Klosse (2013) points out that chili is generally considered a flavor, while menthol is considered a scent; however, both are examples of chemical irritants affecting nasal and oral cavities. These nociceptors are even present in the roof of our mouths (the palate).
What are nociceptors?
Dávila (n.d.) states that nociceptors in the skin, and likely in any other organ, are more than free nerve endings (bare terminal branches of axons) that penetrate between the cells of the epidermis or dermis. The axons belong to a very characteristic type of neuron: the sensory neurons located in the ganglia (clusters of neurons surrounded by connective tissue outside the central nervous system). These nerve endings act as receptors and activate when a harmful stimulus is applied to the skin or subcutaneous tissues, such as muscles or joints. The skin has two main classes of nociceptors, distinguished by the type of stimulus that activates them. Some respond only to intense mechanical stimuli (pinches, cuts, etc.), and their activation is associated with sharp or stabbing pain sensations. Other nociceptors, called polymodal, are activated by various stimuli: mechanical, thermal (heat above 40-45 degrees Celsius and intense cold), and chemical substances released by damaged or inflamed tissues.
Dr. Virginia mentions nociceptors because they respond to cold and hot flavors, adding that there are also warm flavors. Now, let's address why red meats are paired with red wines and white meats with white wines.
Dr. Virginia explains that we enhance the final taste by combining flavors from the same category, e.g., cold flavor with cold flavor. However, when we combine flavors from different categories, e.g., cold and hot flavors, the final taste is neutralized, such as when pairing fish with red wine.
In practice, there are cases where excellent results arise from combining flavors from different categories.
Both authors provide a categorized list of flavors to help us understand and relate them better in our daily lives: Klosse offers a more general perspective, while Dr. Virginia focuses on tea.
| TYPE | EXAMPLES |
|---|---|
| Compounds / Hot Flavors | Piperine (Black Pepper), Capsaicin (Red Pepper), Nicotine |
| Compounds / Cold Flavors | Menthol and Neomenthol |
| Compounds / Stinging Flavors | Hydroxybenzyl Isothiocyanate (Mustard, Radish, Onion, and Garlic) |
| Compounds / Pungent Flavors | Ethanol, Cinnamic Aldehyde (Cinnamon), Curcumin (Turmeric) |
| Compounds / Astringent or Drying Flavors | Hydrolyzable Tannin and Condensed Tannin |
The table was created based on information from Klosse (2013).
Dr. Virginia explains that green teas can be categorized as "vegetal," placing them in the cold flavor category. In contrast, oolong teas can be classified as "floral," thus falling under the warm flavor category. Black teas are categorized as "smoky," categorizing them as hot flavors.
However, green tea can lean towards a hot flavor category when it is "Pan Fried" or stir-fried.
What determines the flavor category of a tea?
Its category is determined by its production process. For example, oolong is in the warm flavor category due to its production process, as detailed in the saga of "The Oolong Alchemist and His Elixir."
Dr. Virginia also discusses Pu Erh tea, a green tea that can be fermented by wild yeasts or, in some cases, by added microorganisms and yeasts. Even though this tea undergoes pressing with heat, the microorganisms create a viable growth environment, which curiously does not change its flavor category to warm or hot, despite being subjected to heat.
It is important to note that this tea is prepared with boiling water to kill any present microorganisms. Moreover, these organisms are not inhibited in the factory, during packaging, or while being sold. Hence, Pu Erh tea tastes better the longer it is aged.
This installment takes us deeper into the chemical aspects of flavor. As observed, it is not solely about formulas; there is much more to chemistry and formulas to understand flavor. This is holistic and interdisciplinary knowledge.
Satoricha ~
References
Reunion de Satoricha con Dra. Virginia Lovelace (Temporada 1). (2024, 4 13). In [Zoom]. (Original work published 2024)
Klosse, P. (2013). The Essence of Gastronomy: Understanding the Flavor of Foods and Beverages. CRC Press.
Clinica Dolor Orofacial. (2018, July 2). Nervio trigémino. Funciones y entidades clínicas relacionadas. Clinica Dolor Orofacial. Retrieved April 21, 2024, from https://www.clinicadolororofacial.es/nervio-trigemino/
Dávila, J. C. (n.d.). ¿SE PUEDE CONTROLAR EL DOLOR? Universidad de Malaga. Retrieved April 21, 2024, from https://www.uma.es/estudios/centros/Ciencias/publicaciones/encuentros/ENCUENTROS26/26dolor.html
Comments