BRUSSELS — The guardians of Champagne will let no one take the name of the bubbly beverage in vain, not even a U.S. beer behemoth. (Associated Press, 2023)
On that occasion, 2,352 cans of beer were destroyed for using the slogan describing their product as “the champagne of beers.” This raises an obvious question: what led to such a drastic decision, eliminating 2,352 cans (approximately 8,350,310 ml, enough to fill a family-sized swimming pool several times)?
The answer is simple: the appellations of origin.
“It’s just that… we are different…”
Globalization has brought many positive developments; however, like most large-scale processes, its benefits are accompanied by unintended consequences. While some argue that globalization will eventually lead to a unified humanity, erasing historical and cultural borders, others see it as a Trojan horse that deepens social inequalities while eroding sovereignty, culture, and territorial independence.
This is a broad debate, but it leads to an interesting premise: extremes tend either to dissolve into a uniform whole or to remain distinct realities, albeit with certain nuances.
It resembles a familiar dilemma: evolution or tradition. Is there truly a choice?
Although globalization has blurred many borders, it has not erased something far older: the link between a product and its place of origin. This idea connects closely with the concept previously explored in Terroir.
Since the adoption of the TRIPS Agreement (Agreement on Trade-Related Aspects of Intellectual Property Rights) in 1994, international trade has incorporated a significant shift by including geographical indications as part of its regulatory framework. However, this development had already been taking shape since 19th-century treaties such as the Paris Convention, which recognized that certain agricultural, mineral, and manufactured goods are deeply tied to their geographical origin. Wines, beers, grains, or tobacco were not merely commodities; they were expressions of a place (World Intellectual Property Organization, 2021).
What once resembled someone saying “I am from this place” has evolved into something closer to a lineage or collective identity designed to distinguish and protect those who truly belong to a territory. In this case, the “identity” applies not to people, but to products. What began as a mechanism to prevent counterfeiting has evolved into a complex system of legal and commercial protection.
Although many assume that the strength of geographical indications lies purely in legal enforcement, their real power comes from the shared historical narrative they represent.
And it is precisely within the word “shared” that a paradox emerges: as a shared asset, it requires organization, agreements, and common standards among producers. A geographical identity cannot be sustained individually; it demands structure, discipline, and consensus. It belongs neither to a single person, nor to a company, nor to a single sector, but to all actors involved in its construction.
We could say that geographical indications are one of those rare cases where tradition and market reach a form of equilibrium. They reveal their true value: they do not only protect names, but preserve the idea that certain products belong not only to those who sell them, but also to the place that made them possible (World Intellectual Property Organization, 2021).
“I’m not saying it, WIPO says it.”
At this point, you might be wondering: what exactly are they? To avoid distorting the concept, the following explanations are based on a synthesis of definitions provided by the World Intellectual Property Organization in its guide Geographical Indications: An Introduction.
Note: the following sections include technical language and formal definitions. If you prefer a general overview, you may skip to the next section.
What is a geographical indication?
A geographical indication is a sign used on products that have a specific geographical origin and possess qualities or a reputation that are due to that origin. (World Intellectual Property Organization, 2021).
Article 22.1 of the TRIPS Agreement defines geographical indications as “…indications which identify a good as originating in the territory of a Member [of the World Trade Organization], or a region or locality in that territory, where a given quality, reputation or other characteristic of the good is essentially attributable to its geographical origin.” (World Intellectual Property Organization, 2021, p. 6).
Are geographical indications only used for agricultural products?
Agricultural products typically have qualities that derive from their place of production and are influenced by specific local, geographical factors such as climate and soil. It is therefore not surprising that a majority of geographical indications throughout the world are applied to agricultural products [...] However, the use of geographical indications is not limited to agricultural products. A geographical indication may also highlight specific qualities of a product that are due to human factors found in the product’s place of origin, such as specific manufacturing skills and traditions. (World Intellectual Property Organization, 2021, p. 8).
How is a geographical indication different from a trademark?
Both convey information about the origin of a good or service, and enable consumers to associate a particular quality with a good or service. Trademarks inform consumers about the source of a good or service. [...] Trademarks help consumers associate a good or service with a specific quality or reputation, based on information about the company responsible for producing or offering it.
Geographical indications identify a good as originating from a particular place. [...] A trademark often consists of a fanciful or arbitrary sign that may be used by its owner or another person authorized to do so.
A trademark can be assigned or licensed to anyone, anywhere in the world, because it is linked to a specific company and not to a particular place. In contrast, the sign used to denote a geographical indication usually corresponds to the name of the place of origin of the good, or to the name by which the good is known in that place.
A geographical indication may be used by all persons who, in the area of origin, produce the good according to specified standards. However, because of its link with the place of origin, a geographical indication cannot be assigned or licensed to someone outside that place or not belonging to the group of authorized producers. (World Intellectual Property Organization, 2021, p. 8).
How is a geographical indication different from an appellation of origin?
Appellations of origin are a special kind of geographical indication.
[...] “(1)… the geographical denomination of a country, region, or locality, which serves to designate a product originating therein, the quality or characteristics of which are due exclusively or essentially to the geographical environment, including natural and human factors.”
Geographical indication is a more general concept that does not determine a specific mode of protection. (World Intellectual Property Organization, 2021, p. 12).
Before being a cat, one is a kitten
After reading the previous sections, you may feel informed, overwhelmed, or simply uninterested due to the technical language. The goal was not to overload you, but rather to present the formal framework that governs these concepts, as established by international authorities.
But there is no need for concern. Below is a simplified summary.
What is a geographical indication?
It is a name or sign that says: “This product comes from here… and that is why it is special.” Its origin contributes to its quality, reputation, or characteristics.
Does it only apply to agricultural products?
No. It can apply to coffee, wine, cheese, or even products shaped by traditional knowledge and human craftsmanship. If origin influences its identity, it may qualify.
How is it different from a trademark?
A trademark belongs to a company and can be used anywhere in the world.
A geographical indication is associated with a place and can only be used by producers within that region under specific rules.
What about an appellation of origin?
It is a stricter form of geographical indication.
- Geographical indication: the origin contributes to a quality or reputation.
- Appellation of origin: the product is more strictly tied to the place, including production and raw materials.
The article today may not be the most entertaining; however, if something is worth doing, it should be done properly. Within the topic of geographical indications, we could also explore production processes and how products such as Darjeeling tea, Longjing tea, feta cheese, or Champagne are shaped by their designation of origin. However, we will leave production processes for a dedicated section.
Next week, we will focus on cultivars and varieties.
Of course, if you would like to explore geographical indications or specific products in more depth, feel free to let me know, we can always pause the syllabus and dive deeper into it.
Satoricha ~
References
La agencia Associated Press. (2023, April 22). Miller High Life shipment destroyed over 'Champagne of Beers' slogan. NPR. Retrieved May 25, 2026, from https://www.npr.org/2023/04/22/1171460421/miller-beer-champagne-cans-destroyed
WIPO. (2021). Las indicaciones geográficas: Introducción, 2.ª edición. WIPO.
Comments